Bigger, better, bolder is the message being touted about the first of this year’s London fashion weeks.
As the British capital attempts to regain its status as the hottest destination for talented designers, both established names and rising stars have been showcasing their autumn and winter looks.
Highlights so far have included Paul Costelloe’s perfectly tailored looks in neutral and brown tones and AGRO Studio’s grungy but glam collection.
And at a time where minimalism has become one of fashion’s biggest trends, Tolu Coker and Annie’s shows will have delighted those who prefer their clothes to make more of a statement.
Royal approval
Tolu Coker, a former NewGen funding recipient, opened LFW on Thursday with a very important front row guest in the form of King Charles III.
The King was given his own chair and silk cushion to witness the British-Nigerian designer’s Notting Hill inspired runway, which was set against a backdrop of the area of London she grew up in.
Watched on by Stella McCartney and Skepta, her show featured vibrant red and blue hues and eye-catching multicolour tartan dresses and skirts with matching hats and ties.
There was a real retro feel to her designs, which focus on sustainability through the use of deadstock fabric and environmentally-friendly dyes.
The catwalk was soundtracked by Little Simz, who also performed in one of Coker’s vibrant designs.
With 41 runway shows and 20 presentations across the week, it marks a more than 10% increase in participation compared to last year.
The British Fashion Council (BFC) have been trying to rebuild the global status of London as a destination for designers by waiving fees for a second year in a row in an attempt to “reduce barriers to entry”.
And their efforts appear to have worked – Temperley London is back on the LFW schedule after a seven-year break, as is Joseph after nine years away, who will be presenting under new creative director Mario Arena.
Other big names include Julien MacDonald, Erdem, Simone Rocha and Burberry, who return to tradition by closing fashion week on Monday evening.
But one of the staples of LFW is its inclusion of up-and-coming talent, and this year is no different, with the BFC setting up a new designer showcase for those who have previously taken part in their NewGen scheme.
Paul Costelloe’s son pays tribute
William Costelloe presented his first collection for the label, honouring his late father Paul who died in November last year.
Costelloe told Reuters the designs were “a celebration of tailoring” and that he wanted to “make women look incredible”.
Many of the looks featured this season’s favourite colour – chocolate brown, along with earthy beiges and crisp whites.
His designs created a flattering silhouette, with cinched belts at the waist and structured shoulders heavily peppered across the collection.
Sustainability was also at the forefront in KSENIASCHNAIDER’s show, with the brand continuing its commitment to showcasing up-cycled and reworked clothes that are designed to be worn in a versatile way.
Most eye-catching were the double denim and military-inspired looks from the Ukrainian duo, who are married couple Ksenia and Anton Schnaider.
Appearing in neutral tones like khaki and beige, the looks were a throwback to the grunge-inspired styles of the 90s.
KSENIASCHNAIDER’s show was in complete contrast to Annie’s highly crafted runway looks, which were a flurry of beading, embellishment and feathers.
British designer Annie Doble, whose eponymous brand was formed in Ibiza, is in her third year of showcasing at LFW despite several years working in the fashion industry.
London-based fashion brand AGRO studio also provided an early fashion week highlight.
The design house, which is run by duo Angus Cockram and George Oxby, was displaying their designs for the first time and already features famous customers such as Beyoncé, Raye and Sabrina Carpenter.
Their collection featured grungy lace looks and leather-heavy co-ords, leaning on a colour palette that was moody and dark.
Some of the designs wouldn’t have looked out of place on the Wuthering Heights set, including their satin corsets and full-skirted maxi dresses.
Italian fashion brand Fiorucci also chose to stage its autumn/winter collection in London this year, with a presentation instead of traditional catwalk.
Guests were invited to watch as models sprawled across a pool table decorated in white leopard print, wearing outfits to match the playful aesthetic.
Accessories including lip-shaped purses, tiaras and huge statement necklaces completed the eclectic looks.
