A public interest litigation (PIL) has been filed before the Bombay High Court seeking action against global fashion house Prada for its alleged unauthorised use of a design deceptively similar to Maharashtra’s Kolhapuri Chappal.
According to the petition, Prada, at its fashion show held in Milan on June 22, had presented ‘toe ring sandals’ as part of its Spring/Summer 2026 Men’s Collection. The sandals bore a striking physical resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri Chappal, it has been alleged.
Filed by five advocates, the PIL argues that the act amounts to cultural misappropriation and a violation of the rights of artisan communities historically associated with the Kolhapuri Chappal.
“This action of PRADA infringes the fundamental right to life (Article 21), which includes the right to livelihood and cultural identity of the Kolhapuri Chappal artisan communities,” the plea states.
The petitioners have sought directions to restrain Prada from commercialising and using the chappal, which is originally a Geographical Indication (GI) Tagged product. They have also sought a public apology from Prada.
The footwear showcased by Prada was reportedly priced at over ₹1 lakh a pair.
As per the plea, the designers never mentioned the Indian origins of the footwear and failed to acknowledge Indian artisans who have been making them for generations. The use of the brand name on such footwear directly undermines the livelihood and dignity of the traditional artisans and authorised users of the Geographical Indication, the petitioners have contended.
The Kolhapuri Chappal, registered under Application No 169 in Class 25 (Footwear), was officially granted Geographical Indication status on May 4, 2009.
It was renewed in 2019 and is valid until 2029. The petition describes it as a “handcrafted footwear, produced using traditional methods passed down over generations in the region of Maharashtra.”
The petitioners have cited Section 22 of the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999 to claim that Prada’s actions “undermine the moral and economic rights of the artisans, erodes the cultural identity embedded in the craft and contravenes the objectives of Section 22.”
According to the PIL, the making of a pair of Kolhapuri chappals involves specialised human skills and a time-intensive process, typically requiring around four to five weeks to complete each pair. The footwear reflects countless hours of meticulous labor by artisans who have preserved this traditional art form for nearly 800 years in India, the plea states.
“Traditional knowledge, skills, and craftsmanship involved in the making of Kolhapuri chappals constitute intangible cultural assets of the artisan communities of Maharashtra, which cannot lawfully be used, copied or commercialized by third parties without the consent or authorization of the rightful custodians,” the petitioners have submitted.
The plea also asserts that Prada’s actions infringe Article 29(1) of the Constitution of India, which guarantees the right of any section of citizens having a distinct culture to conserve it.
